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Home Value Built-Ins: Enhance Your Property’s Worth
How to design and construct customized cabinets, bookshelves, benches, window seats, and other built-ins.
Built-in furnishings like bookshelves, window seats, and cabinetry lend a refined, upscale look while optimizing space efficiency. Constructing customized built-ins as permanent architectural elements also adds value and desirability to any home. With careful planning and execution, DIYers can complete professional quality built-ins to improve function and aesthetics.
Planning Your Built-Ins
Evaluate existing room dimensions and layouts. Determine dead space areas that could benefit from built-in furniture for storage or other uses. Consider traffic flow, furnishings, and how space is used regularly. Decide the purpose and required size and design for your built-ins.
Draw plans to scale indicating placement, size, materials, and construction features. Factor in design elements like faced frames, panels, window and door trims, crowns and bases. Account for possible pipes, outlets or other obstructions at the install site. Select durable, quality hardwoods and materials for lasting value. For more information on wood types and their uses, visit From Tree to Table: Understanding Wood Types and Their Uses.
Preparing the Installation Site
Constructing built-ins requires secure attachment to the building framework. Remove existing trim, moldings or baseboards as needed. Inspect the area for level and secure floor, walls, and ceiling. Address any underlying issues to ensure a sound base for built-in installation.
For floor-based units like cabinetry, check for plumb walls and square corners. Use shims if needed to create a perfectly flush framing surface. Electrical and drywall work may be required behind or within cabinets. Remove existing coatings or textures as necessary to start fresh.
Built-In Framework Design
The supporting structure makes or breaks the built-in’s functionality and lifetime. Consult existing framing plans or use a stud-finder to locate studs for attaching the built-in framework. Often additional framing elements must be added within the wall cavity to fully support bench tops, shelving loads, and cabinet bases.
Draw detailed framework plans for the base unit or shelving supports indicating lumber dimensions and placement to handle structural stresses and weight loading. Allow for interior cabinet elements like vertical divider supports and shelving ledgers. Pre-assembling framework as much as possible makes site installation go quicker.
Constructing Surfaces and Facades
With underlying supports ready, now build out the visible surfaces of your built-in. Cut facing boards, panels, trim, and molding pieces to size with square, precise edges. Drill pocket holes for screws to attach frame facades and facing boards to base structures.
Adhere to cabinet standards and techniques for solid doors, faceframes, durable shelves and surfaces, and quality joins. Sand and finish coat facades, panels, and boards prior to final assembly and installation for a built-in look. Remember to also craft and attach decorative elements like crown molding. For more tips on sanding, visit Sanding Mastery.
Installing Built-Ins Securely
Transport prefabricated units in components to reassemble on site. Ensure sufficient helpers for lifting heavy pieces safely into place. Remove doors and draw fronts if necessary during installation.
Attach framework bases first using shims and fasteners into wall studs, blocking, or floor. Test for level and plumb. Then reattach faces, facades, panels, and trims. Use adhesives and finish nails for strongest bonds on overlays. Conceal fasteners for clean results. Reinstall any hardware, adjust doors and drawers, and complete finishes like caulking.
Considerations and Costs
Basic woodwork skills, tools, and carpentry experience are needed to construct quality built-ins. Allow plenty of time for precise measuring, cutting, sanding, finishing and installing properly. Poor fits or finishes will downgrade aesthetic and monetary value. Consider consulting skilled tradespeople if unsure about achieving clean results.
The cost to add high-end custom built-ins can range from $150-$600 per square foot. But even simpler DIY units on a budget offer cost-effective ways to add storage and function while looking like upscale permanent features. Properly planned and executed built-ins deliver lasting value, beauty, and enjoyment for years to come.
Built-ins transform unused spaces into elegant bookshelves, window seats, cabinetry, and benches that appear seamlessly integrated into homes. With careful prep work and carpentry skills, you can create customized high-end built-ins on any budget that not only improve function and storage but increase a home’s livability and market value.
Built-In Furnishings FAQ
Q: What types of built-ins add value to a home?
A: Custom bookshelves, window seats, storage cabinetry, media centers, benches, display cases, desks, and more.
Q: What planning is required before starting built-ins?
A: Measure space, draw plans to scale, account for room layouts and obstructions, order materials.
Q: What construction skills are needed to DIY quality built-ins?
A: Carpentry experience, familiarity with cabinetry techniques, precision woodworking skills. For more tips, visit Beginner Woodworking Tips and Tricks.
Q: How are built-in frameworks attached securely?
A: Anchor into wall studs or flooring using robust framing designed to handle weight loads.
Q: What are facing boards and facades for built-ins?
A: Boards forming the visible surfaces that get finished for integrated built-in look.
Q: What installation tips create professional built-ins?
A: Conceal fasteners, make tight joints, use adhesives, install plumb and level.
Q: What are ways built-ins can be customized to a space?
A: Size and position to optimal locations, match trims and finishes to existing, create coordinating sets.
Q: Approximately how much do custom built-ins cost?
A: Price per square foot typically ranges from $150-$600 depending on materials and complexity.
Q: What mistakes should be avoided with built-in projects?
A: Poor planning, shoddy framing, rushed work, bad measurements, imperfect finishes.
Q: How can you update existing built-ins or hutches?
A: Replace facades and hardware. Add moulding, lighting, glass door inserts for a fresh new look.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Install Wood Wall Paneling
Covers prep work, materials (bead board, boards, planks), tips for cutting and finishing for a wood paneled accent wall.
Wood wall paneling can add beautiful warmth, texture, and visual interest to any residential or commercial space. From rustic cabin aesthetics to refined shiplap accents, wood-paneled accent walls are an achievable DIY project. With proper planning, material selection, and installation techniques, you can transform the look of a room with gorgeous new wood paneling finishes.
Planning the Project
Evaluate the space to determine the best placement for a wood paneled wall. Focal walls in living spaces, headboards, fireplace surrounds, and entries lend well to an accent treatment. Consider how paneling can complement existing style and finishes or introduce desired elements like modern, farmhouse, nautical, or rustic looks.
Measure wall dimensions and windows or doors to calculate total square footage and material requirements. For easier installation, select standard length lumber sizes to minimize cuts while maximizing use of boards. Account for a 10% overage in purchasing materials. Choose panel style – shiplap, boards, beadboard, planks etc. and wood species to suit the room.
Ensure underlying walls are even, secure, and properly prepared to support paneling. Remove protruding nails or screws. Fill any large holes or gaps with spackle and sand smooth when dry. Clean surfaces thoroughly and prime before installation for better adhesion.
For the most professional results, use a level and furring strips to shim out any uneven areas of old plaster or drywall. Install new drywall over damaged areas for a perfectly smooth base. Mark the wall with a chalk line as an installation guide area if not covering the entire surface.
Choosing Paneling Materials
Numerous solid wood and composite options exist for DIY wall paneling:
- Plywood panels create painted feature walls.
- Tongue and groove boards allow tight seams.
- Beadboard offers Victorian elegance.
- Reclaimed barnwood brings repurposed rusticity.
- Shiplap makes modern statements with clean lines.
- Lumberyard hardwood boards scratch build customized panels.
Shop lumberyards, home centers, salvage yards, or online to find your desired size, wood species, grade, and milling style of boards within budget. Allow proper acclimatization and test cuts before installation day.
Cutting and Installing Wood Boards
Careful measurements, precise cuts, and level installation are key for a professional accent wall. Leave 1/8” gaps between boards and at perimeters to allow for minor expansion and contraction of natural wood over time. Use a miter saw with fine cut blade to cut boards to length with ends perfectly square.
Drill pilot holes near ends to avoid split outs when nailing. Test pieces together on the floor prior to attaching. Use a brad nailer and adhesive for strength and hidden fastening. Follow nailing schedules for proper spacing – every 6-8” along boards. Work from the bottom up, securing each row before starting the next.
Finishing Wood Paneling
Pre-finishing boards before installation provides protection behind as well as ease of application. Use primer, sand lightly, and apply two finish coats of paint or stain following manufacturer’s recommendations before attaching boards. Another option is to just prime the backside for moisture protection and finish walls and paneling together after installation.
If nailing through face, be sure to countersink nails and fill holes thoroughly for an ultra-smooth finished wall. Polyurethanes protect and seal stained wood. High quality latex or enamels cover painted paneling evenly. Let all finishes fully cure before use and furniture replacement.
For inside corners or flawless paneling around windows, make precise miter cuts rather than simple butt joints. Dry fit and test angles before installation. Use scarf joints to join boards inconspicuously when necessary. Cut panels to overlap window and door trim rather than ending at sides for a built-in look. Apply trim over paneling edges for a finished custom appearance.
With attention to a few key preparation and installation steps, installing wood paneling is an achievable weekend project for DIYers. Transform an accent wall with beautiful, natural wood finished with paint or stain. Paneling adds texture, depth, and warmth to any space. Follow safety and finishing best practices to enjoy your new paneled feature wall for years to come.
Wood Wall Paneling FAQ
Q: What are some different paneling materials to consider?
A: Plywood, beadboard, shiplap, tongue and groove boards, salvaged barnwood, lumberyard boards, reclaimed wood.
Q: How should you prepare walls for installing paneling?
A: Fix imperfections, prime and paint walls for a smooth, even base. Use furring strips on uneven surfaces.
Q: What tools do you need to cut and install wood panels?
A: Miter saw, table saw, jigsaw for cutting. Level, nail gun, drill, adhesive applicator for install.
Q: What technique gives the most secure panel attachment?
A: Adhesive combined with finishing nails or brads into wall studs or blocking every 6-8 inches.
Q: Why leave expansion gaps between boards?
A: Natural wood movement from humidity means allowing 1/8″ gaps at seams and perimeters.
Q: Should you finish panels before or after wall installation?
A: Pre-finishing makes applying protection behind easier but finishing later conceals fasteners.
Q: How do you properly make inside corner joints?
A: Precisely mitered joints or overlapping boards hid seams around inside corners.
Q: How are panels best trimmed around windows and doors?
A: Cut panel edges to overlap trim for built-in look. Install trim atop panels at edges.
Q: Can you install paneling over drywall or plaster walls?
A: Yes, it attaches directly over existing surfaces in most cases. New backing not needed.
Q: What maintenance is required for paneled walls?
A: Dust carefully, clean with mild soap and water. Refinish surfaces over time as needed.
A Guide to Adding Wainscoting and Bead board to a Room
Transform a space by installing wood paneling on lower walls and ceilings. Includes planning and installation.
- Planning the Components
- Tools and Materials Needed
- Preparing Walls
- Cutting and Installing Frames
- Applying Beadboard or Planks
- Finishing Touches
- Planning for Ceilings or Curved Walls
- Coping with Obstacles
- Costs and Considerations
Wainscoting refers to the decorative wood panels lining the lower portion of interior walls. Often paired with beadboard accents, wainscoting can lend traditional elegance and visual interest to any room. From choosing styles to prepping walls and installing boards, this article will cover the complete process for DIYers to beautifully transform rooms with wainscoting and beadboard finishes. If you are new to woodworking, you might want to check out this beginner woodworking tips and tricks to get started.
Planning the Components
Traditionally, wainscoting capped baseboard trim and acted as a protective wall covering. Today it primarily serves decorative purposes. Consider the style of room when deciding on panel dimensions and layout:
- Chair rails: horizontal trim separates upper and lower wall sections. Lowers typically get paneled.
- Beadboard: thin spaced boards with grooved vertical lines create pattern and shadows.
- Raised panels: square or rectangle mouldings create framed sections. Paneled wainscoting has framing around recessed boards.
- Planks: wide solid boards create rustic textures. Shiplap and tongue-and-groove add dimensional interest.
Mock up the wall layout with painter’s tape to visualize effects before purchasing materials. Account for doors, windows, and wall elements in planning the wainscoting design. Also, understanding different wood types and their uses can be very helpful in this stage.
Tools and Materials Needed
- Boards: beadboard, v-groove, shiplap, or solid wood planks in desired style
- Chair rail, baseboard, backband moulding (framing)
- Wood glue, nails/screws, fasteners
- Levels, tape measure
- Table saw, miter saw, jigsaw, nail gun, drill
- Wood filler, putty, stain/paint and brushes
Moisture-resistant MDF board avoids warping. Wide planks may use more costly solid woods like poplar, oak, or pine. Calculate linear feet of each component to buy sufficient supplies. Rent tools if needed. If you are looking for tool recommendations, here are the best carpentry tool sets reviewed.
Wainscoting installation requires secured, smooth substrate walls. Eliminate wallpaper, debris, and protrusions. Fill any cracks, holes, and imperfections with spackle and sand smooth. Prime and paint walls, allowing to fully dry before wainscoting installation. Make sure to follow the essential safety measures in woodworking during this process.
If paneling will only cover walls partway, use painter’s tape to mark off the height for a level guideline. Check for plumb walls with a level and address any areas out of square. Install back blocking between studs where nail attachment is needed.
Cutting and Installing Frames
For paneled beadboard or plank wainscoting, first install the horizontal chair rail and vertical stiles framing each panel section. Cut moulding pieces to length with precise 45-degree mitered corners. Drill pilot holes to prevent wood splitting. Set baseboard trim.
Use a level and spacers to install chair rail evenly across all walls. Attach stiles connecting corners. For raised panels, frame openings then fit and glue or nail recessed panels within. Leave 1/8-inch gaps for expansion between panel pieces. Countersink nail heads and fill holes for a smooth finish.
Applying Beadboard or Planks
Before installing the decorative wainscoting, lay out boards on the floor to arrange placement of longer pieces, color variations, or symmetrical patterns. Number boards on the back for an assembly map.
Apply construction adhesive to walls and press boards into place with joints fitting tightly together. Stagger beadboard butt joints across rows. Use pneumatic nailers, screws, or glue and clamps for a sturdy finished application. Trim boards around corners and edges with a miter saw for custom fits.
Complete the install by reattaching original baseboard trim or adding new shoe moulding at the bottom edge of wainscoting. Countersink all nails, putty any defects, and sand for a smooth surface. Apply wood filler and caulk at joints or seams as needed before your choice of paint, stain, whitewash, or other finishes. For more information on finishes, check out this guide on different wood finishes and how to apply them.
Lightly sand again and wipe clean after finishing for a smooth painted or stained surface over both existing drywall and new wainscoting. Finally, reinstall wall plates, lighting, hardware, and any removed decor. Step back and admire the beautiful new vertical interest and dimension added with wainscoting accents.
Planning for Ceilings or Curved Walls
The techniques above apply to flat walls, but wainscoting can also provide gorgeous coffered details on ceilings or curved staircases. Plan panel layouts and curved cuts carefully through drawings and measurements or by making cardboard templates. Number precut pieces so the ceiling application goes in sequence. Use adhesive and screws for overhead installation strength.
Coping with Obstacles
The main challenges when adding wainscoting are corners, uneven existing walls, obstructions like radiators or pipes, and varied ceiling heights. Inside and outside corners may need custom corner post moulding for proper finishes. Shims, deeper baseboards or additional framing pieces can work around uneven wall surfaces. Make precise cuts around protrusions through the paneling. Adapt rail and stile heights as needed for non-standard ceiling heights.
Costs and Considerations
Wainscoting installation costs range from $6-50 per square foot depending on the materials and complexity of the chosen style. Using pre-primed boards and quality materials helps the project go smoothly. The proper tools, safety precautions, patience, and attention to detail will achieve professional looking results. Consider hiring contractors if in doubt about the skills needed. But when done properly, wainscoting creates elegance and sophistication in any space.
Adding wainscoting and beadboard paneling lends a room gorgeous architectural detail. With careful pre-planning and installation of decorative wood boards and trim pieces, this relatively straightforward upgrade yields amazing visual impact. Transform plain spaces into rooms with vintage character, rustic textures, or refined sophistication with quality wainscoting projects.
Q: What are the main styles of wainscoting boards?
A: Beadboard, raised panels, planks, shiplap, tongue-and-groove. Each creates different visual interest on walls.
Q: What length boards should be used?
A: Full wall height pieces minimize seams. Standard beadboard lengths are 8 to 10 feet. Use scarf joints to extend boards.
Q: How is wainscoting framed?
A: Chair rail molding goes horizontally at top. Vertical stiles create panel sections. Baseboards or base caps finish the bottom.
Q: What tools are needed for installation?
A: Table saw, miter saw, jigsaw for cutting. Level, nail gun, drills, pry bar and glue for attaching boards.
Q: What’s the best way to prepare walls?
A: Fix imperfections, prime and paint. Mark layout lines. Install back blocking if needed between studs.
Q: Should wainscoting go over existing drywall?
A: Yes, it attaches over drywall or plaster for easiest installation. New framing isn’t necessary.
Q: How should inside and outside corners be handled?
A: Use corner posts or mitered joints. Coping saws cut profiled edges for custom trim at corners.
Q: What technique attaches boards most securely?
A: Construction adhesive combined with finish nails, brads, or screws creates a strong permanent bond.
Q: How do you work around uneven walls or ceilings?
A: Use shims or furring strips to compensate. Vary top rail and stile heights to account for differences.
Q: Can wainscoting be painted or stained?
A: Yes, apply your choice of finishes over primed boards once fully installed for built-in look.